1968 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback

Engine & Transmission

 

 

Here is the build-up of 1968 440 Engine

We got the engine block back this week and have also gotten all the other engine parts.  Now we can start putting it together.

Here is the Engine Block

Received the engine block.   This is what was done to the block  -

  • Boiled & de-greased block
  • Magnafluxed block
  • Bored block - .030
  • Honed Cylinders with honing plate
  • R&R Cam Bearings
  • R&R Freeze Plugs
  • Regrind Crank 10-10 & Polish
  • Recondition Rods - new rod bolts
  • R&R Rods on Pistons - Forged Pistons 10.1 Compression
  • Balanced Complete Assembly

 

Now we have primed it, blown out the internals with air, checked all oil galleys, and wiped out the block.

      

We are ready to install the forged crank.  Wiped Crank off, blew out oil holes in the Crank, removed Main Caps, installed Lower Bearings and Lower Rear Oil Seal.

Installed Crank, installed upper Bearing Caps, Torqued from center out to 85 foot lbs.

Forged Pistons with Teflon Skirt 

Installed Pistons with Bearings and torqued to 45 foot lbs.

Installed the Cam (Cam #643801) and installed the Timing Chain (Billet Gear & Roller Chain Set.

Painted the engine block, installed aluminum heads (Stage 3) with new high-strength stainless steel fasteners.

 

Installed the heads and timing cover.

  

Will be receiving Mufflers (Delta Flow Stainless Steel Mufflers) - 2-1/2" inlet and outlet

      

Fire-Lock is a stainless steel compression fitting that replaces conventional Exhaust system clamps, dramatically improving under-vehicle appearance and offering superior sealing performance.  We are using 2-1/2" Stainless Steel  Exhaust. We chose 2-1/2" Stainless Steel tubing for our exhaust.  We measured and welded in our 90 degree and 45 degree elbows with Heli-Arc.  We then made the tips out of 2 x 4 rectangular tubing, cut to the angle of the car.  We polished them to a mirror finish.  Here is the picture before we install it on the car.

We started installation of the exhaust system from the headers out.  We fabricated stainless steel flanges and reducers and heli-arced them on the stainless steel mufflers.  We then installed the Fire Lock connecters from the mufflers to our fab'd exhaust tubing.  All you have to do is slide the two pieces of tubing into the Fire Lock and tighten.  Then we installed two hangers for each exhaust pipe so there is no vibration and then added our exhaust tips that we made.

Installed water pump housing and water pump after getting them back from the polisher.  Installed the Oil Pan after getting it back from plating.

Installed new polished Tunnel Ram and Carburetors (650 Double-Pump Carbs built especially for specs on this motor.

 

Installed Taylor Vertex HEI Mag.

All Lubricants

  • Performax Synthetic Oil  10-30
  • Multi-Transmission Synthetic
  • Synthetic Rear-End Oil  80-140
  • Oil Filters provided

Polished Alternator

Billet Aluminum A/C Alternator bracket

Bolting a Sanden-type A/C unit on your 440 was never as easy as it is now. This bracket fits 440 & Hemi engines with the thin style harmonic balancer & includes brackets, spacers, and adjusters. It also allows you to retain the stock fuel pump & power steering pump. No frame modifications are required & the bracket locates the compressor under the alternator.  We should have the new A/C Alternator Bracket by next week.  

Received our Alternator-A/C Bracket today.   Here is a picture of ours.  Can't wait to get it installed.

We have installed our Alternator-A/C Bracket.

Received the Water Pump and Crank Pulleys.   They fit perfectly.  We installed belts, and are waiting on the Flex Fan.

 

 

Automatic Torque Converter for Mopar 727  3000 stall. 

727 Automatic Transmission.

    

  • 727 RB Transmission
  • Heavy Duty 4 Clutch Pack
  • High Powered Drum
  • Semi-Metallic Friction Bands
  • HP intermediate low band
  • 5-0 Ratio
  • Reinforced band struts
  • 4 pinion input planetary gear
  • Hardened Input Shaft
  • Modified Valve Body and Governor
  • Improved Lube Oil Circuits

We needed a deeper transmission pan for more capacity and cooling.  Ours has a black wrinkle finish and polished fins with a 2-quart extra capacity.

Here is a picture of the Trans Pan after we installed it on the Cuda.

 

We have the old original Transmission Mount that came with the car, but it looks like somebody (or something) took a big BITE out of it!  Couldn't use it, so we decided to make one out of Stainless Steel.  We made a template, cut the sides out of 1/8" Stainless.  Then we took 1/8" x 2-3/8" stainless plate and cut & heli-arc welded the bottom end and drilled and slotted it for the rubber mount.  Then we polished it.  Here are the before and after pictures as well as the template pictures.  Quite a difference!!

  This is the old mount.  See how it looks like something took a bite out of it on the right side.

  

 

  Here is the new one that we welded and polished.  Looks much better than the original!

 

 We got the motor mounts and here is a picture of the engine in the car.

The radiator is now in the car, as well as the A/C condenser. 

 

Here is the 727 Transmission and the Stall Converter, ready to install.

 

 

  The complete Transmission is now in the car.

 

We ordered the aluminum drive shaft (had to wait to get measurements after the transmission and engine were installed). 

Received the Aluminum Drive Shaft. The shaft diameter is 3-1/2".  It is really a beauty!  Here is a picture of it before we install it.

 

 

It is such a tight fit in the engine bay with the 440 engine, that normal headers won't fit.  We are getting new headers 

We received our headers today.  Here is a picture of them (before we install).  They are good looking headers!!!

 

 Started the installation of the headers.  

Passenger Side

Driver Side

Picture of underneath of the car with both headers in place.

After getting both headers in place, I discovered that I needed to take the driver side header back off & install the transmission first, then put that header back on.  Because of the tight fit, everything must be done in the proper order.  We added a 1/4" shim on each motor mount to give us clearance, especially by the steering box. 

We reinstalled the transmission and will be installing the new extra capacity trans pan tomorrow night.

 

Stainless Steel  A/C lines.

 

Flexible Stainless Steel upper and lower Radiator hoses as well as Heater hose.

   

 

  

We have now installed the heater lines.  We made Stainless Steel tubing adapters from the front of the motor to the hoses and an adapter from the firewall to the hoses. 

 

 Intake System

We purchased a 2-piece Tunnel Ram made by Mopar Performance.  After setting the specially-made carburetors on the intake and installing it on the engine, we discovered that our new 6-pack hood wouldn't close.  The combination of the tall intake and the carburetors, made it too tall and the hood hit the carbs with no room for an air cleaner.

We needed to shorten the top piece of the Tunnel Ram by 2-1/2".  We weren't able to find anyone who could modify it, so we made a new 2-piece top portion.

These are the steps we took to make the top plates:

  1. We bought two pieces of 1" solid billet flat bar. PIC1
  2. We made templates of the bolt patterns and hold patterns needed.
  3. We cut the main holes in both plates.
  4. We clamped the two plates together, then drilled and counter-bored for the bolts so that both plates would match.
  5. We then machined the base plate to match the holes in the intake and cut an equalization slot from carburetor to carburetor. PIC2
  6. Machined the top plate for the carburetor bolt down, main carburetor holes, equalization slot and linkage. PIC3
  7. We then polished the two pieces, bolted them together and installed them on the intake base.  PIC4
  8. We installed the new intake with the carburetors and linkage attached.  PIC5

PIC1 -

PIC2 -

PIC3 -

PIC4 -

PIC5 -

Here is a picture of the hood in place on the car.  It now fits and will close nicely.  If you look closely inside the scoop, you can see that we now have clearance.

Built the fuel-log from 1" stainless steel tubing.  Made the ends and then welded them into the tubing.  Drilled and tapped for inlet & outlet.  Made fittings for all four fuel lines and welded them into the fuel log.  Attached four stainless steel fuel lines to the carburetors.  

We purchased an Electric Fan, model Slider (like the one pictured below). It is a 16" diameter fan, with a custom aluminum housing and an SPAL fan which will push 1920 cfm.  We have to put it in front of the radiator because there is not enough room for it between the radiator & the water pump pulley.  

 

 

The fan came with pre-drilled and tapped holes on the outer ring for ease in mounting.  We attached the fan to the front of the radiator with stainless steel straps that we made and polished.

  Fits like a glove & looks great!!

 

 We have installed an overflow tank.  This is a custom overflow box, made of polished aluminum, in a Penta Star design.  If the radiator should overheat and overflow, the overflowing coolant will go into this box instead of on the ground.  When it cools, the coolant will go back into the radiator.  Here are pictures of the tank before installation.

 

 

 

We had originally put a set of old valve covers on the car that we had blasted.  But we wanted the valve covers to be different since just about everything else on the car is "custom".  We purchased a set of aluminum valve covers.  They will be polished aluminum and engraved with the name Wild Fire with the letters painted the color of the car. 

 

 We received the new custom valve covers.  Here is a picture of them before installing.   The script for Wild Fire is perfect!!

 

It was hard to get a good picture because they are so shiny that they reflect everything.  So we placed one on the car & took a picture so we could see how they will really look.  It's still tough to get clear pictures, because they reflect everything around them.  But they are beautiful!

 

We found some 1" o.d. Stainless Steel flexible wire loom and polished it.  We cut it to the proper length, made a nylon bushing to fill the hole in the firewall, installed it and ran the wiring through the loom to all the front lights, electric fan and horn.

 

 

Previous top radiator line that we installed was too close to the upper belt, so we decided to make one out of Stainless Steel.  We fabricated it out of 1-1/2" Stainless tubing, polished it, and used one of the Radiator Clamps to install it.

 

 

We felt that we should add a strap from the engine to the frame to keep the engine from tearing away from the motor mount.  We fabricated a Stainless strap that is bolted to the top of the head and goes down to an adjustable turnbuckle.

 

We could not find the "right" look for our PVC valve, so we decided to make one.  We used Stainless Steel Hex Bar, drilled and bored.  Then we made a Stainless Steel Check Ball with Stainless spring for one-way action.  We connected everything from the breather to the back of the intake with Stainless tubing.